In Vientiane, the bus lurched about 100 meters before coming to an abrupt stop. Touts flash flooded the cabin tossing gum, water and chips into my lap hoping to get cash in return. About 9 or 10 'no's later, the bus was off. I took a Valium and got through about 3 chapters of Kerouac before nodding off.
I awoke an indiscernible amount of time later, well after sunset. It was a food stop, and I had grown tired of my rations, so I checked out some of the edibles on display. Sticky rice by the clump, random meats pinched in bamboo sticks, spices in little jars. This would have to do. I ate everything I purchased, said a prayer to ward off tapeworms and went back to sleep.
The Valium worked wonders because when I awoke, it was morning and a dude was trying very hard to get me off of the bus. First time that's ever happened. 15 hours went by in a flash and I was in Pakse, southern Laos.
I decided that I might as well go all the way to the islands seeing as though I had made it this far. A songthaew was boarding nearby and I hopped on with a swarm of locals. As it sped the 100 or so kilometers towards the islands, I kept falling asleep on the shoulders of random Laos. my god I was zonked.
At the pier, two French Canadians were waiting for someone to show up and make the fare cheaper. I was that person, and for someone who saved them each 4 bucks, they sure as hell weren't very friendly. The boat sped around all kinds of tiny islands and trees sprouting out from the shallows. These were the 4000 islands, or Si Phan Don, for those who make an effort to remember. The mighty Mekong spread out into tiny tributaries forming islands of all shapes and sized before converging back into one solid river again. Somewhere in this cluster was Don Khong, the island where most tourists settle, myself included.
This island was perhaps the most bucolic place I'd seen in Laos so far. No slow boats, colonial architecture, bucket bars or broad promenades. It was all dirt roads, wooden houses, chickens and water buffalo, barefooted children. Tourist amenities were abound, but hardly any tourists. Accommodation was easy to find. Everything was riverside of course. Upon being handed my key, I hit the bed and fell asleep.
I awoke at 7pm. Dammit. My sleep schedule had been so stable up until now. It was dark so I had absolutely nothing to do except eat. I found a place that had Internet (really, these days it's hard to find a place that doesn't), but it was very very expensive. A storm was moving in, so I set up on the beach with a camera to catch some lightning. Nothing to do. Back in my room I whittled away hours reading ahead in my Lonely Planet. Eventually I'd fall asleep again.
Next morning I was back on track. 10am. I rented a hot pink bike with a basket and a banana seat and set about exploring the island. It seemed easy enough. Tree-lined paths ensured an ample amount of shade. Signs offered direction. I went to a waterfall, then a beach. I bumped into Melanie and Anaka AGAIN. Heading south, the trails got a little rough, but the scenery around could not have been any more pastoral. Rice fields, water buffalo, farmers toiling away. At the southern tip, I encountered a half-built railway. Hardly even resembled a railway. Really, the only thing they managed to do was throw a trail of rocks down, and they were brutal to bike on. After about 10 minutes of unimaginable turbulence, I switched to another path. Any longer and my children would be born with stutters, I thought. back at the village I came to the realization that I didn't quite enjoy my bike ride.
Melanie and Anaka were supposedly staying quite closeby, but I couldn't locate them for the life of me. This meant another evening of ambling about alone. The 4000 islands weren't doing it for me, so I booked a ticket out for 8am the next morning. Next destination: Siem Reap in Cambodia, home of the famed Angkor Wat, and a good 14 hours away. Why do I do this to myself? I swore at the beginning not to take any airplanes, and aside from one small indiscretion, I've made good on that promise, so no sense quitting now. At least I would make good time. Really the hardest part would be not missing the bus in the morning.
I awoke an indiscernible amount of time later, well after sunset. It was a food stop, and I had grown tired of my rations, so I checked out some of the edibles on display. Sticky rice by the clump, random meats pinched in bamboo sticks, spices in little jars. This would have to do. I ate everything I purchased, said a prayer to ward off tapeworms and went back to sleep.
The Valium worked wonders because when I awoke, it was morning and a dude was trying very hard to get me off of the bus. First time that's ever happened. 15 hours went by in a flash and I was in Pakse, southern Laos.
I decided that I might as well go all the way to the islands seeing as though I had made it this far. A songthaew was boarding nearby and I hopped on with a swarm of locals. As it sped the 100 or so kilometers towards the islands, I kept falling asleep on the shoulders of random Laos. my god I was zonked.
At the pier, two French Canadians were waiting for someone to show up and make the fare cheaper. I was that person, and for someone who saved them each 4 bucks, they sure as hell weren't very friendly. The boat sped around all kinds of tiny islands and trees sprouting out from the shallows. These were the 4000 islands, or Si Phan Don, for those who make an effort to remember. The mighty Mekong spread out into tiny tributaries forming islands of all shapes and sized before converging back into one solid river again. Somewhere in this cluster was Don Khong, the island where most tourists settle, myself included.
This island was perhaps the most bucolic place I'd seen in Laos so far. No slow boats, colonial architecture, bucket bars or broad promenades. It was all dirt roads, wooden houses, chickens and water buffalo, barefooted children. Tourist amenities were abound, but hardly any tourists. Accommodation was easy to find. Everything was riverside of course. Upon being handed my key, I hit the bed and fell asleep.
I awoke at 7pm. Dammit. My sleep schedule had been so stable up until now. It was dark so I had absolutely nothing to do except eat. I found a place that had Internet (really, these days it's hard to find a place that doesn't), but it was very very expensive. A storm was moving in, so I set up on the beach with a camera to catch some lightning. Nothing to do. Back in my room I whittled away hours reading ahead in my Lonely Planet. Eventually I'd fall asleep again.
Next morning I was back on track. 10am. I rented a hot pink bike with a basket and a banana seat and set about exploring the island. It seemed easy enough. Tree-lined paths ensured an ample amount of shade. Signs offered direction. I went to a waterfall, then a beach. I bumped into Melanie and Anaka AGAIN. Heading south, the trails got a little rough, but the scenery around could not have been any more pastoral. Rice fields, water buffalo, farmers toiling away. At the southern tip, I encountered a half-built railway. Hardly even resembled a railway. Really, the only thing they managed to do was throw a trail of rocks down, and they were brutal to bike on. After about 10 minutes of unimaginable turbulence, I switched to another path. Any longer and my children would be born with stutters, I thought. back at the village I came to the realization that I didn't quite enjoy my bike ride.
Melanie and Anaka were supposedly staying quite closeby, but I couldn't locate them for the life of me. This meant another evening of ambling about alone. The 4000 islands weren't doing it for me, so I booked a ticket out for 8am the next morning. Next destination: Siem Reap in Cambodia, home of the famed Angkor Wat, and a good 14 hours away. Why do I do this to myself? I swore at the beginning not to take any airplanes, and aside from one small indiscretion, I've made good on that promise, so no sense quitting now. At least I would make good time. Really the hardest part would be not missing the bus in the morning.
The boat ride to Don Khong.
Thunderstorm on the horizon.
Abandoned school house.
The road to the shire.
Water buffalo passing through.
Bye!
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